Treat your boat's fuel with a stabilizer. Fuel Stabilizer PRI-G and Stabil are
ideal products for this job. After adding it to the fuel, run the engine for 10
minutes or so to be sure stabilized fuel circulates throughout the engine. Best time to do this is before you are moving
to the hard.
If you don't stabilize the fuel, carburetors and fuel
injectors can be clogged with varnish deposits that ruin fuel systems. Cost if you do: $5 to $10.
Drain the Engine (for inboards and
Locate and open the petcocks (some engines have bronze plugs similar to bilge
plugs) underneath the manifolds and on the sides of the engine block. Remove
the water-pump hose from the bottom of the water pump to let it drain
completely. If you don't drain the engine, water in the cooling chambers can
freeze, expand and crack the engine block and manifolds. Tip: Newer MerCruiser
stern-drives have handy drainage systems with one drain plug near the front of
the engine. Outboards self-drain and never require this step
Fog the Engine Cylinders
Aerosol fogging solutions coat the inside of the engine to protect it until
spring. Each engine manufacturer makes proprietary products they promote as
ideal for their engines. Hook "ear muffs” and a garden hose to the engine,
start it, and then spray the fogging-solution lubricant directly into the air
intake until it's gone. If you don't fog the engine cylinders, corrosion can
form inside the engine, covering the cylinders, pistons and rings with a patina
of abrasive crud.
To add antifreeze at that point you can get this Camco
65501 Do It Yourself Boat Winterize amazon.ca for $57
flushing and preparation of boat engine for winter storage with just
five-Gallon of antifreeze (sold separately) and your flusher.
Marine Dual Flow Flusher available at amazon.ca $18
Change the Oil
Change engine oil to eliminate moisture and prevent corrosion. If you don't,
moisture can cause excessive wear, which can lead to loss of power, poor fuel
economy and possible engine failure. Tip: Some mechanics change the oil in
spring breakout on the theory that the engine oil needs to be changed yearly.
However, if you
change to 100 synthetic you can leave you oil change to 100 hours running
time. That could be once every 10 years
for you sailors
Cost if you do: $30 to $75 do it yourself
Drain the Gear-Case Lubricant (and
Clear, amber-colored lubricant means your gear-case seals are in good shape.
Milky and sometimes lumpy oil means the seals need to be replaced. Tip: The
time to do this is in the fall when marine mechanics are less busy and
sometimes willing to offer special prices for winter work. Cost if you do: $10.
On Amazon.ca $10 Shoreline Marine SL52226-X Pump Lower Unit Fill
Change you Zink’s
First, the larger the surface area of an anode, the higher its
electrical current capacity and galvanic holding voltage. For most boats,
you want your anode surface area to be sufficient to maintain all underwater
metals between -900 mV and -1100 mV relative to a silver/silver-chloride
Every couple year depending on how they look
Great place to get them one line for cheap http://www.boatzincs.com/index.html